Every June 21st, over one hundred cities spread throughout the globe celebrate the gift of free live music.
Since 1982 and falling on the longest day of the year -the day of the summer solstice- French Embassies, Cultural Centers and Alliances Françaises the world over have put together a musical experience as open and diverse as you can get.
In my little city, music took over the old quarter with representations of many genres. Access for cars to the Casco Antiguo was closed to give way to waves of hurried feet, old feet, skipping feet all going in different directions, all to claim their music. On a deeper level, handing that sense of ownership to everyone who found themselves in the city was the beauty of it. No obstacle course, no artifice, no deception at the end of the road. No freaking VIP sections.
We took our three kids and naturally set up camp in front of the Rock N' Roll stage at the Teatro Nacional parking lot. We arrived in time to see Carlos Mendez, Cienfue, our good friends Carlos Ivan and Rocío (Son Azul), Maleza with guest star David Levi and the others I didn't get to see most probably because I kept looking down while trying to make sure we remained a party of 5 at all times. Ok, except the last half hour during which I kept looking down so the police officers wouldn't catch me drinking from my 'circumstantially illegal' can of beer.
In nearby venues, people gathered to hear everything from jazz trios to salsa bands, world music performances, Panamanian folkloric music and classical concerts. And people responded. People came and ate and drank and listened to free live music. In the midst of all the bad things happening to this poor country, this sheds a ray of light on all of us. Picks us up and takes us to the surface, at least for the time it lasts and for a short breath of fresh air.
At the end of the night there were tumbling feet, tired feet, drunken feet. Near midnight, after nearly 12 hours of music, everyone was still thirsty for more. And so, with the salsa stage closing the event in one corner, and a dance party hitting it off at the next, the Fête de la Musique came to an end for the second year in Panama. I must say I'm impressed by the seamless organization. If you missed it this year, do count the days till the next.